Alongside our regulars, Bespoke Shoe of the month, In the Workshop and Tool of the month, in this issue we’re

• Showcasing not one, but two, London Craft Week events this coming week 13 - 19 May

• Explaining why we’re shining a spotlight on heritage British clogs for our fourth kickstarter campaign

• Launching our new closing class with Fiona Campbell.

  Deborah & James

Twenty years since we founded Carreducker, we’re delighted to be showcasing a selection of student shoes and boots to illustrate the versatility of handsewn shoe making and its relevance to the modern day, particularly when it comes to durability, repairability and sustainability.

Students work with the same oak bark tanned leather and traditional tools as we do, as we guide them through the 200+ steps in shoe making.

We proudly showcased our first explorations in molding leather at Future Icons Selects and Formed with Future Heritage last year. As Future Icons 2024 returns to the Barge House, we’re delighted to be showing our curved sculptural leather forms just across the courtyard at Coaxed in Unit 1.22 Oxo Tower Wharf.

We’re co-hosting this pop-up gallery, with our neighbours at Oxo, By Raffaella and KCH Pottery.

With sturdy, statement footwear all the rage we’re tapping into the zeitgeist to shine a spotlight on the English clog. Our upcoming crowd funding campaign launches soon to offer you unisex clogs made by Phil Howard in Yorkshire and hand finished here at our workshop in London.

The shoe du jour of industrial England in the late 19th century, clogs are imbued with English heritage from gang fights to folk dance. You can’t really get more utility wear than a clog.

We’ve been road testing Phil’s clogs for a while now and have to say just how comfortable they are and how little we wanted to change, with just a few tweaks to the sole, laces and finish.

Clogs are as versatile as sneakers, they look great with jeans and dresses, but are MUCH more sustainable.

The wood for the soles comes from Northumberland, the 2.8mm leather for the uppers comes from Tuscany and Phil is based in Yorkshire. The only thing that you’ll need to replace from time to time is the rubber sole and heel.

As well as lasting forever you’ll stride out with a confidence like no other, safe in the knowledge that you can kick, run or dance yourself out of trouble!

It’s been many, many years in the making, but we’re excited to announce a new closing course with Fiona Campbell.

Those of you who have watched Fiona’s pattern making videos or joined her for in-person training will know just how detailed, informative and well planned Fiona’s classes are.

On this three-day closing course you will learn the principles of

• Preparing and skiving seams

• Edge finishes / seam techniques

And then make your own simple Derby uppers in Italian softee leather.

You will learn to use both a post and a flat bed machine and leave with a folder of samples, useful techniques, notes and a pair of plain Derby shoe uppers to make into shoes.

The closing course runs as part of our Summer School schedule from 29 - 1 July. See below for more details and here’s the link to book.

Take the closing class on its own or join us for our immersive Summer School to make your own patterns, uppers and then plain Derby shoes.

25 - 27 JULY PATTERN MAKING COURSE £1236

Students: 3 max.

Hours: 10am - 5pm (or 9.30 - 4.30pm)

Location: SW London

On this intensive, hands-on pattern making course you will create a standard from which you will make a simple Oxford and Derby pattern

29 - 31 JULY NEW CLOSING COURSE £1386

Students: 3 max.

Hours: 10am - 5pm

Location: SW London

(See course description above)

2 - 15 AUGUST 12-DAY INTENSIVE SHOE MAKING COURSE £2495

Students: 6 max.

Hours: 9.30am - 5.30pm

Location: London SE1 9PH

Our famous intensive 12-day shoemaking course takes you through the 200+ steps in the handsewn process starting with a pair of uppers, lasts and a pack of bottoming leatherto make a pair of leather soled shoes. We will either make uppers for you or you can use your uppers made in the Summer School

FEES

Individual fees are listed above.

If you book the 6 day Pattern Making & Closing together it costs £2422, a £200 discount.

If you book the full summer school of 18 days Pattern Making + Closing + Shoe Making together it costs £4877, a £240 discount.

This month we’re doing a deep dive into…

THE EXTON DERBY SHOE

The toe shape on the Exton is the classic carreducker 0743 last, a softly rounded almond…

But with a slightly flatter toe box, classic and timeless…

STYLE

The Exton is a traditional derby shoe with a wingcap and counter. It has 2:1 brogue punching on both the cap and the counter…

And a custom toe medallion…

With a wingcap derby, there is a very harmonious flow of gentle curves along the length of the shoe which the punching and toe medallion accentuate. The overall effect is very satisfying…

LEATHER

The leather is another beautiful example of the work of the Italian tannery Tempesti. This colour is called Cuoio and is a rich mid brown with reddish hints. We have enhanced it with some coloured shoe creams to give some subtle variation along the length of the shoe…

The lining is a cranberry glacé kid which enhances the depth of colour of the Cuoio…

One of the things we love about these Italian veg tannned leathers is that they have an abundance of character. Many leathers have a corrected surface which means that any slight imperfections, blemishes or growth marks are removed , giving a uniform appearance. This is not the case with box calf leather which has been, until now, the go to leather for men’s formal shoes…

MAKING

The Exton is made with the following features:

• 1” heel height

• bevelled waist

• 1/4” sole

• natural finish throughout

• matching sticker sole for grip

We always have a wide variety of work on the go at any one time. Some shoemaking is straightforward, but some is a little more complicated. And sometimes we need some help in finding a solution.

We produce a lot of leather bits and shavings that are too small to use for anything else. We recently asked what we should do with these leather bits on Instagram and got some interesting suggestions

• composting

• turning into leatherboard

• grinding and mixing it with paste and cork to make filler

• burning it in a wood burning stove

• mixing it with waste metals to use in paperweights

• making a medicine ball, foot stool or door stop

Any other ideas?

Needless to say, we are saving it. A decision will be made when the box is full!

Feathering Knife

OFFER

To enjoy a 10% discount on a Carreducker feathering knife, hit the Buy Now button and enter the code FK10 at checkout

Reading: James Rebanks

Watching: Ripley

Listening to: How To Fail with Elizabeth Day

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Many thanks

Deborah & James